Talented to do for the Warriors and South Korea joint mountaineering matchmaker
mm Gangdise Travel Notes
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1996, the economy in the province of Yunnan Sheng Tiwei log recruitment of two climbers television ads, advertising, broadcast consecutive month, whatever the outcome, five are not afraid to die. two great boys body - Mu Shi-Jun 27-year-old, 25-year-old Yuan Hongbo is selected. and then they were sent to training bases in Beijing, China Mountaineering Association.
At this point, I also made up his mind to leave Guangzhou, vagrant. - the Gangdise Mountains, the target mm two virgin peaks.
mountain, for most Chinese people, has still a luxury, with money still does not work, you must also find a good stick, and was able to follow China Mountain climbers into old friends around, this rare opportunity. And again I think we need to find a job much easier. Besides, I know, China in 1996, climbing movement in China has basically completed a major qualitative change , and I want to personally go to prove that it is a qualitative change.
before departure, I already know I caught another in the traditional opportunity to describe the heroic stories, the traditional narrative is outdated, I can not reuse the year Everest Double Cross described the , rewarded 10 million
? it. Anyway, he has not live much longer. indelible impression.
In this context, Yuan Mu heart does not prove curiosity worth two. So Wood kept from the Shih-Chun old parents living in rural areas.
human beings have an extremely valuable quality - the unknown world of the ;, it is human understanding of nature's most powerful understanding of their original mental power. But not everyone has this quality. So, you may never convince someone to believe the mountain can not make any sense, you can get only their own feelings.
, of course, an obvious fact that climbers are not necessarily a composition by the fans.
Second, the fortune teller said that hh
1996 年 9 12 afternoon, Korean Joint poor wood Kangri - cold cloth Kangri Expedition, breakdown of secondary school students and white sportswear at the venue on both sides. Sa Sa will be two of the sidelines of both visitors passing from their expedition to create an atmosphere of almost no sense.
there had been climbing the whole country in view of China Note, Celebration, the scene has gone. climbers China and the ROK is not very concerned about starting, 13, Friday? > I understand that climbers know that these words half joke, half true. in the captain Wang Yongfeng fortune teller forget the mother of a diagram, please. conclusion is: the go thousands of miles, will have gone through ups and downs, and ultimately be successful safe return in 1993, when Wang Yongfeng Zhu Mu Lang climbing, descending after a successful way to distress, and the base camp lost contact with up to 28 hours, frozen off several toes. that adventure frightened his mother.
13, Japanese and Korean members of the joint expedition of 30 climbers over the six men traveling in the off-road and a Bus from Beijing. expedition scheduled in 10 days: Anyang south - turn west Chuang Tongguan - arrived in Xianyang - the West Side Pingliang - more Liupanshan - Cross Lanzhou to Xining, Qinghai-Tibet line runs through the gravel along the vast desert, many Shiozawa the Qaidam Basin, off the southwest later, crossing the Kunlun Pass - five beams - spanning the Yangtze River source Tuotuohe - and then break Tanggula - across the grasslands of northern Tibet.
bolted after thousands of miles, may have time to Yangbajing Wash all the way hot dust, and then at or near the first target - the poor mother at the foot of hills camp. climbers was so known to go by land, I resolved to squeeze into the time-consuming and labor-intensive way to take this I later became a mystery to be uncovered.
three Tongguan nightmare
9 月 13 morning, the expedition set out from Beijing, the first leg of the intended target - Anyang, Henan. Team a Shijiazhuang High-speed, poor road conditions on the up - narrow peak.
;
In fact, the But the climbing community has always been short of money. Therefore, in accordance with the joint to the sponsorship in kind, so six of modern off-road vehicles to offset the agreement should be out by the large amount of money.
gave this to cause trouble for China's Association board, large team of people in Tibet by car, plane tickets is saved, room and board expenses have increased along. And to the traffic situation in China today, the land will not only travel four thousand kilometers is too long, there are risks of long-distance traffic pouring the pressure involved.
14 日 6 pm, expedition Tongguan arrived in Shaanxi, 210 State Road in front of a desperate tummy actually queues. thousands of vehicles from start to finish, the Tongguan - Mountain 20 km of the valley near the foot of stuffing. local traffic police said that 13 of the dead dragon at 14:00 on the surprise that the piece of queues longer. Driven to despair, I and the Chinese Mountaineering Team players Wang Yongfeng, Zhang Zhijian, wood Shi-Jun, Yuan Hongbo several people act as traffic police, began struggling to divert vehicles. valley thousands of cars The driver was trapped for two days and nights all gone temper, obedient to meet with us, hh
1996 can no longer be done in the spring, the economy in the province of Yunnan Sheng Tiwei log recruitment of two climbers TV ads, advertising, broadcast consecutive month, whatever the outcome, not afraid of death to five. Two great body boy - 27-year-old wood Shi-Jun, Yuan Hongbo, 25, was selected. and then they were sent to training bases in Beijing, China Mountaineering Association.
At this point, I also made up his mind to leave Guangzhou, once again become I've never been - Gangdise mountains, the target mm two virgin peaks.
mountain, for most Chinese people, has still a luxury, with money still does not work, you must also find a good walking stick , to follow the Chinese team into the mountains around old friends, this rare opportunity. And again I think we need to find a job much easier. Besides, I know, China in 1996, climbing movement in China has basically completed a major qualitative change, and I want to personally go to prove that it is a qualitative change.
before departure, I already know I caught another in the traditional heroes of the story describes the opportunities, the traditional narrative is obsolete, I do not might then depict two-year span Everest
one, rewarded 10 million
Universal Ganzhe Shi? He wins spot. anyway, he has not live much longer. hearts bears the indelible impression.
In this context, Yuan Mu curiosity to know only two did not prove worth curiosity. So Wood kept from the Shih-Chun old parents living in rural areas.
human beings have an extremely valuable quality - of the unknown ; curiosity received only their own feelings.
, of course, an obvious fact that climbers are not necessarily a composition by the fans.
expedition continued westward, gradually increasing elevation along the increasingly bleak. < br> 17 day expedition to the Da Xining. dinner is the count, suddenly found that employed by other units from the temporary driver Yang Jingqing gone. the original, the first one on the plateau Yang Jingqing altitude sickness appeared to Xining, not hello back to the hotel to lay down.
19 morning, after a day rest in Xining, the expedition set out at noon to enter the narrow basin. in this desert wasteland filled with gravel, and from east to west is covered with a known as the ; Kuafuzhuiri using over-kilometer Qinghai-Tibet line is very significant benefits to open truck, generally one way to get 6 thousand dollars a month, two more trips without too much problem. to earn the money and not everyone dares to earn. The result of Run Hill lost his life. request to go home. The 40 several of the man wiping away tears, said: because the rhetoric of the era too old. Three days later, he was sent down from the mountain.
Yang Jingqing gone, that night, I wrote in the diary: In China, the mountain was exaggerated movement of the expression of national will , now it's this feature is gone. This change is the desire and choice in many ordinary leaving a space, which makes it easier for you to see the colorful life, in fact, is derived from its complexity. in that dangerous environment, people are no longer so taboo in talking about their true motives, and basically in accordance with their true feelings to make a choice, this community greatly progressed.
the way into the mountains, the driver of the Chinese Mountaineering Association, Wang ugly child said to me: feel different, they are real. If you want to mountain climbing, and have the financial resources, or to catch a ride like me to go; If you can not stand the torture, you can also choose to set. However, for now poverty in mountaineering circles in China see chance to seize a mountain, much more difficult than down.
climbers participated in the activities of people know, every mountain activities are a story of the General Assembly. The Wang Yongfeng also told me revealed a buried long story: in 1995 during the Spring Festival, he and Li Zhixin to climb the South American peak of Aconcagua. Aconcagua in Argentina's scenic spots, each year thousands of foreign climbers to the mountain. climbers to the base camp of the The distance between the very long, to walk for three days. If you do not want to walk, you have to hire local people to travel pack donkeys. but the price of your travel ass too scary, actually to 2000 dollars.
time with them Also from the North Star to the Bai Jianqiang. Baijian Jiang never been to high altitudes, carrying luggage on the road did not take long, they feel unable to stand, then begged hire donkeys to ride. Wang Yongfeng coaxed, the four legs The scary thing is too expensive, or Ting Ting it. wait for the white lords tired to cry, but can not cry, had shouted: fucking. Damn U.S.!
If the time to push to Everest in 1988 the day I, I will certainly give up these interest, because this is real life.
six, base camp, many people have heard a suspicious animal sounds, round and round and round the tent camp.
, finally give up the idea, to bad if that wild boar.
24 日 breakfast, a group of people sitting around and began a warm talk with in the end last night visited the headquarters of what is animal. Zhijian dye determined to declare a climate of fear, insisted that like a wild boar out of a Yak called no surprise. the. Who would have thought a few days later, one thing surprised me, I was with the an oddly shaped cast the net, I am very surprised that situation.
Gang at the poor mother did not seem wild boar, wolf hard to say whether there is a. in good Pu said, do be careful in Xixiabangma wolf mountain. One year he to Shishapangma, the camp killed a sheep, the sheep on the tent, the next day, raw sheep gone, leaving a string of wolf footprints on the snow. the same day, a first night will be translated into the mountains of acute last resort out of the tent comical hit the base camp.
in the mountains, many of these are available not only pass the time of the conversation, but also to create a steady stream of bizarre anecdotes In 1996, the mountain in my eyes have started to like the symphony of war evolved into an essay.
seven, fruit, then ignited moxa, sprinkle with roasted barley, a surge of white smoke rose curling, snow-capped mountains in the background was black and blue sky, constitute a particularly beautiful picture.
officially started mountaineering .
27 days, I came to the advance camp 5600 meters above sea level, on the case of new members and Shih-Chun Yuan Hongbo sadly wood height 200 meters from the large ice wall down.
Shih-Chun wood spirits yesterday, said he is also a large ice wall can not grasp the essentials on how, like a top spinning wildly unstable points. stupid thick wooden bit frustrating.
observed in the forward camp, the poor at home Gang more beautiful, in the Tibetan language, the mother Kangri dome means the camp is quite spectacular Bing Talin left and right in front of a large ice wall is imposing.
the Chinese team has two players in geological doctorate - Zhang Zhijian, Ma Xinxiang.
33-year-old Zhang Zhijian said that the avalanche zone, everything.
very rich mother Kangri dome shape of the peak of the rounded peaks, the visual impression is very gentle.
In Tibet, many peaks have . because the Chinese players do not like to They also wash basin, low is the Foot bathtub.
weather will be late, I went to the lake to fetch water for cooking, wooden cautioned that do not draw water in the lake directly, export to the bottom of the lake water overflow. Tibetan villagers reminded that God is the lake, direct water might damage the and nature so deep gulf, an important reason is that human nature has been lost due awe.
eight, play a very stimulating rat
climbing, sometimes very lonely.
28 day and night, a heavy snow, forcing the suspension of mountaineering activities. Mende tears camps who have nothing to something to do.
afternoon, Li Zhixin, Wang Yongfeng bored, come up with a way to pass the time - with the stream filling rat holes. Now Tibet's grasslands, most of the rat holes clouds, the fat mice looked very lovely too many in the grasslands a large landscape. Li and Wang first bucket irrigation efficiency is too low, that is not fun, but also recruited to the rat holes in the irrigation water hoses, and that hundreds of thousands of rat holes, almost all of them associated, where they can succeed. Li Zhixin refused Ganxiu, simply divert the stream, the direct use of stream water irrigation holes. I side Rao in the mood to watch them toss the afternoon, a prairie mice did not taking it every.
lonely, sometimes led to the discovery of particularly subtle. Morning Li Zhixin, said excitedly: The hole will be the morning frost. probably the first time in this life so sweet to eat industry officials to come one after another mountain barracks.
9 30, South Korean television team employed yak pack equipment for the camp on the move. in good Pu remind each other, there is not a well-trained pack of yak cows, equipment or the people back safe. South Korean press did not seriously. yaks immediately fired back, jumped a pass arbitrary, thrown to the machine immediately, South Korean reporters Mianrutuse scared.
the mountain, many of China and the ROK ; mountaineering official Long Ren Zhechun visited the camp to move forward. potbellied Renzhe Chun walking in the rugged mountain road, still flamboyant place hands behind, and walked Fangbu. tired, sit down, accompanied by an immediate delivery of South Korean team of coffee, King cigarettes. smoke, if not smoked, he also accompanied by delivery team, accompanied by team members and then pumping pleasure, like to be touched by Xianqi.
Koreans so they Ren Zhechun to us president: students, he had served as president of South Korea Central University. At present business, we still have politicians. like mountains, but in any case not in the camp overnight, so the expedition from Lhasa during the day and sent a car to receive his base camp, then he returned to Lhasa in the evening five-star hotel.
the history of mountaineering in the world, so long toss back and forth of. the most money (reportedly $ 200,000 per year minimum) when the president and when not to pay, popular mountain in South Korea. However, South Korea mountain retreat of the decision or in the hands of an experienced mountaineer. The members of the Korean team is the first climbers from South Korea finished Zhang Feng selected. South Korean players on the money too, there are ten blocks of eight thousand meters mountain climbing experience, Zhang Feng finished, it can be said to be in awe.
last year, South Korea to prepare for joint mountaineering, Mount Everest in Qinghai jade training, two South Korean team drink fight, taekwondo master Zhang Feng five sections of the two end immediately all knocked to the ground, and put them in the primaries from the joint expedition off the list.
ten, snow mountain tomb monument
10 月4, ad hoc decision to attack the United climbers summit, the result was the blizzard of failure. China and the ROK decided to rest the first assault, assault by a second upward movement established in the height of 6600 meters above sea level III camp.
10 月5 morning, four South Korean players began to height of 6600 meters above sea level movement. That day is Saturday. 10:30, president of South Korea's high the mountains the situation calm, sunny home base is, so the Chinese camp who simply moved to the open air the Licensing Board. Although not play, but were attracted to gambling interest in the world of the Korean people, who crowd in the side Chinese gambling law - so, high-president of Xing and then concentrated bet, did not dare to watch the battle, and hurried up the The activity is in the Gangdese of Mt Kamiyama Gangrenboqi peak, is said to be a turn around Gangrenboqi peak sins washed away for 10 years, turn twice to wash away the life of sin, how many laps on the sub- you can go to heaven hh
ZHANG Xi-chen told me that he turned to give the mountain climbers in the hope to bring good luck.
the way to Tibet, I learned that Xi-Chen has repeatedly after treatment for the climbers of the victims things, so today decided to interview him.
1975, China carried out in the northern slope of Mount Everest climbing a large-scale activities, ZHANG Xi-chen is the first time that exposure to mountaineering activities in Tibet. Since then, he had more than a dozen views into the mountains.
1978, China and Iran who have been jointly adaptive climbing Everest. then a new shadow factory sent a man named Shi Ming Ji photographer, he went to the 5580 meters a heart attack on the spot death. mountaineers to the tall stone body carried back to camp next century cremation, cremation for this set up a three-team leader is Chenshang Ren, crew and Wang Xi-Chen is the ugly child. ZHANG Xi-chen said, the day the sun has not set, and we erected pyre, doused with gasoline, Shi Ming Ji is the big man, not burn burn morning. Later, we picked up a point of the ashes back in Beijing to open a memorial service.
1980, the Sino-Japanese climbing Mount Everest , Ube Japan, players out the way down from the height of 8200 meters Huazhui, has been thrown to 6800 meters, the whole body and broke all the bones, like a dough. the body was carried back to base camp, this is Xi-Chen, Wang and Chen Shangren three ugly child team composed of his cremation cremation. ZHANG Xi-chen said: ;
Xi-Chen Zhang, said he often dreamed of familiarity in the mountains of the dead. Now one was killed on the tension.
, however, did not deter the victims century, 20 years later by the rise of .20 Himalayan climbing fever not only in full swing, few people concerned about previous mountain climbing activities Gangdese started.
indeed, had never heard of what climbers want to , as long as the mountain to the snow as possible to the tomb, to the mountain for the monument.
Why climbing? To conquer nature? this concept has long been a market;
to become famous? This is certainly better than bare in the square safer left more effort sensation;
to make money? the world the vast majority of climbers, are to-pocket.
Why? Perhaps the only answer is a common human curiosity and great natural magic.
XI, a beautiful landscape
10 7th - surprise at.
3:00, the United climbers commander Li Zhixin has been up.
4 时 20 points Chinese players Wang Yongfeng, La II 6000 meters from the camp to begin direct assault peak .6, the captain of China and the ROK began to call the 6600 meters, respectively, Camp Three of the six commandos. But until 8 pm, Three camps have no answer . Li Zhixin very nervous, how six people can not hear the call? he could not help but think of Meili Snow Mountain tragedy.
8 when 30 minutes, South Korea completed the first climb captain Feng Zhang and Three camps were connected to the walkie-talkie, when he learned Three South Korean team is not prepared by the mountain wind was furious after starting his walkie-talkie in one by one to three of South Korea called on the players to come sharply reprimanded.
At this point, Wang Yongfeng, Laba Camp III has arrived with the three convergence of the Chinese team members were found Camp III is indeed too much wind, the tent camp on the building ledge, standing outside in high winds when dangerous .8 40 points, base camp for the first time and they pass on the word, they reported that the mountain wind of seventy-eight, unable to move, if unoccupied tents have been blown.
windy hill, but the stronghold of observation, but it is blue skies, no wind that sign.
not call for two hours answer, worried about hanging lamps Li Zhixin very fast. Since then, the camp fell into the incredible Three long silence .10 points, Li Zhixin suddenly learned from the Koreans call, highlighting not proceed because the Chinese team was not ready, Li Zhixin suddenly hit the roof in on the walkie-talkie inside shouted: At this time the South Korean team meal is indeed in the other Chinese, and it is waiting for Wang Yongfeng. Wang Yongfeng morning departure going too fast, take the heat, and put the piece of leg zipper underwear pulled down. but went cold large wind bone air assassination, the zipper pull is also not on how. It was a nightmare, his leg wrapped in ice and snow stormed a tent camp III, trembling, stiffness of hands. Zhijian seeing this, that his own crotch, said not care so much, and you hand it to the plug, the only warm hh
headquarters staff totally unaware of this situation, Wang Yongfeng is furious about the do not want to explain. This has become the biggest day charades.
10 o'clock half, China and South Korea team finally set off, an eagle flew over the camp like a camel in front add to the fun, for a long time leisurely in the sky, which has twice landed ten meters away from us place, very confident we came close to taking pictures.
Since then, the while listening to a report on progress commandos, while holding high-powered telescope rotation spot situation, in the bright snow on the slope of the assault team moving slowly, just like a small black ant queue. commandos progressing well , base camp staff feel more relaxed, drinking tea tea, coffee coffee, there are people sipping beer, watching TV drama leisurely a beautiful landscape, rich romantic stronghold Liu Yizhuo.
that day, China and South Korea nine players (five Chinese) hand in hand on board the poor mother of Okazaki peak.
second, half a matchmaker
10 12, bid farewell to the expedition, like adventure too.
but this mountain, the Chinese team seems destined to only as Tashi also because of finger frostbite team can not continue to .10 14 May, China and South Korea to reach the second goal of the Allied Expeditionary Force - Cold Bugang at the foot of the peak the next day, the Tibetan mountains La reconnaissance team has a sprained foot. a series of attrition, the Chinese power greatly reduced.
cold Bugang at mid-mountain peak in the Gangdise also Gangdise mountain peak, the Mountain dangerous situation. accompanied the expedition ... Saga Prefecture
